Le nettoyage à l’ancienne

 

Our street was narrow, unpaved, and fenced by two large stone walls.
This was before the joli maisons; houses sprang up like mushrooms all around us, eating up the vineyards and olive trees. This was before the new families arrived. This was before we had to say goodbye to those who had lived on Rue du Moulin all their lives and made it a street that took you back in time.
 
Since the construction trucks couldn't pass on our narrow street,
those stone walls that had been there longer than anyone living in the village had to come down. The tumbling of those walls ended the life that used to trespass on either side.
 
Daily, I strolled down the unpaved rue with my children; I'd encountered the local color of our village every step of the way. I loved those afternoon walks where it felt like I slipped back in time, seeing the France of movie sets that had become my life.
 
"Monsieur Gaston!" I waved with his cap and called in his strong Provençal accent,  "Come see!" In the middle of the vineyard, at the foot of the mountain, he was gathering wild asparagus. "Here, taste it, and you can eat them raw." He said with a big smile as his weathered hands gave us the asparagus. We sat in the vineyard, eating from his basket, while my baby son pulled on the vines that made Monsieur Gaston laugh.
"This asparagus is my secret. I've been coming to this spot for years; aren't they delicious?" Mr. Gaston winked and added a few more wrinkles to his beautifully aged face. 
 
After the impromptu picnic, we continued on our way, meeting a woman who rode a bicyclette. That day attached to her bicyclette was a large cardboard box. As we grew closer, we could see the purpose of that box. Ylonde was collecting twigs. She shyly smiled, "I can never be too early, little by little; I need to collect firewood for the winter; I can only carry so much at a time in this box."
My children scurried about, making a game out of collecting a few dry twigs, and eventually handed them to her, and we were on our way.
 
Michel limps from a childhood illness, and his left hand always hides in his pocket. However, that has never stopped him from collecting fennel in the fields to sell at the local marché. Michel pulls me aside and says, "Do you think we should dig up all the wild tulip bulbs? The new houses will stand right on top of them." He is right; I hadn't thought about that. I glance out into the open field and realize that instead of seeing wild red tulips with yellow stripes, I will see paved driveways next year.
 
Not so far after, we saw Annie tenderly picking sage. After kissing the children bonjour, she said, "Il vaut mieux avoir la sauge dans son jardin, qu'un frère medecin," (It is better to have sage growing in your garden than to have a brother as a doctor.) "…This is my garden as spread out her arms." Annie invited us to her house, where she prepared fresh sage tea, which we ate with black olives cured by herself from the olives she picked on the famous rue du Moulin and dry bread.
 
Flanked on both sides of the river are ancient plantain trees. Crossing the river was always a highlight of our promenade. First, we had to find footing; if too deep, piggyback rides were in order. Next to the river is the laverie, le nettoyage à l'ancienne, where long ago, the community gathered to wash clothes. Sure enough, as if time had not moved on, there was Marie, washing her clothes, scrubbing them on the washboard made of stone. "Bonjour, Madame," she nervously adds, 
"I know! I know! I'm crazy! But the clothes smell so good afterward, and I have time; I can do what I want at my age, Non?" Looking at this 85-year-old woman who had lived her entire life in the village I called home, I had to agree, but I doubted if I could sit on my knees that long.
 
This daily walk down our street was real and happened just like I said, but when the stone walls came tumbling down. The houses sprang up like mushrooms; this way of life went back in memory, in a spirit that made my village change; only those who encountered these old souls can recall how it was and now rest inside those who shared France of another generation.
 
 
 



Comments

30 responses to “Le nettoyage à l’ancienne”

  1. oh my what a glorious story. I am having such a lovely time reading your blog.
    Sadly, it is like this the world over – gorgeous old buildings coming down to make room for new monstrosities without a soul. I believe old homes have a soul. What an utter disgrace that those stone walls were knocked down. Gone forever.
    Your life sounds much like a favourite book of mine: ‘on rue tatin’ * love it!

  2. Marie-Noëlle

    I love those old places where the laundry was washed…
    There are plenty of them about my area, some have been kept in good state, some other are collapsing, unfortunately.
    As a matter of fact my grand mother’s mother and gran used to go to those washing places…
    One day, when my son was 6 or so, he came back from school with a set of questions to ask his grans about “their time”. As he also had 2 great grans at that time, we phoned them to ask (we lived at over 400 kms from them).
    One of them 2 spoke for about 2 hours on the telephone explaining everything about the washing places, that her mother +gran carried and transported the washing on huge wheelbarrows, etc…
    My son was very interested and so was I…
    I finally asked my gran to write all this in a letter for my children, which she did.
    I’ve kept the sheet of paper as if it were a piece of gold (as a true historical testimony and as a memory from herThank you for your blog entry + picture, Corey!

  3. What a nostalgic journey you have taken me on and what wonderful characters along the way! But how disappointing the character of old buildings and places are not valued for the beauty they bring to life…Nel

  4. It always lifts my spirit when I come to visit you.
    Thank you for the love and joy you bring into my life.
    Love Jeanne ^j^
    God bless the woman collecting twigs and all those in need
    Blessings!

  5. Your postings are so poignant and dear. It’s as if we were tucked in your pocket, back in the days before the walls fell, out for a stroll with you and your children. Lovely, just lovely. Thank you.

  6. Oh my, this is one of the saddest stories I have read in a long time. What have we lost, without even thinking about it? What are we losing everyday while we build, build, build? It is like the human race knows that it will end soon and MUST leave its monuments!

  7. Progress is such an ironic monster.
    Very touching story, a fond memory I am sure!

  8. How good it is that you recorded what life was like on your street before it was replaced with the “joli maisons.” Change is inevitable but it is not always beneficial or for the better. On the other hand, those “new people” must be glad things changed so they could live there, too…

  9. Life as it should be lived. Your children will take those memories with them to tell their grandchildren, for who knows what will be left by that time. Please tell me you transplanted the tulips..?

  10. Do you know what your street (before) reminds me of? My family’s home in Islamabad, Pakistan. Thanks for the nice read!

  11. Progress…hmmmmm
    The age-old theory that to have your own slice of the country life you must first make it urban. Aaack!

  12. Corey, for some reason I had the mistaken notion that progress did not, would not, could not overtake the historic beauty of such a street. I should have known better that “progress” would impose itself on such a place that is now just a beautiful memory. Reading this made me sad despite the elequence of your story.

  13. There will remain words like yours to document times that time will forget.
    Bless you!

  14. My own childhood was lived in places like that. They are gone now, but the memories linger on.
    We keep them alive. You have passed them on to your children…
    Love, Colette

  15. This is very well written and draws a person in as if they too were walking just behind you watching these events unfold.

  16. Ack! We are facing a similar situation here, but certainly not the razing of ancient walls and ways of life.
    Thank you for providing a view of the real Provence in your wonderful style!

  17. Nicely written you always draw
    us into your story as though we were a bird on your shoulder!
    I get so upset when I see urban sprawl happening in our open areas…such a shame to see so many trees ripped away from the earth!

  18. What a beautiful post Corey, and what wonderful memories you have given your klids, first the walks in their childhood, then writing about it, keeping it forever.
    It all reminds me of “our” Italian village, Terracina, where we have stayed many a week, and where all our kids have created their own memories.
    Thanks for this lovely post.
    When will your “memoirs” be out????

  19. I thought I recognized this post. Your stories are ingrained in my mind 🙂 And that is very good!

  20. love this so much. It is all so real, I can breathe it. The olive trees, especially 🙂

  21. what a lovely story … yet again! it sets a nice new mood, perfect for the rainy day today here. thank you!

  22. What a treat to read this memoire, thank you!

  23. What a wonderful story. May it remind us all how wonderful the ‘everyday moments’ are.I’m going to go and stir up some simple ingredients and make nice hot muffins with my five year old now.

  24. I love this! I think you might have the makings of a wonderful children’s book.

  25. I live in an ever changing big(gest) city.. I feel whenever I turn my back they build something or make a new road..
    this is interesting and lively.. but I would like to take my kids .. to places I went when I was a child.. and share with them.. but nothing remains the same.. =))

  26. Ahah! You DO live in Paradise! Corey, you MUST write a book! Or send you work to a travel magazine. Woman, you have a gift! I’m feeling calm and relaxed after reading this post. So lovely.

  27. What a delightful story of rural life, friendly neighbours, organic food and wild flowers. How could one live in the city when you already live in paradise? How I would love to be there with you! I watched a program where someone relocated to France to open a restaurant and they also had to take down the stone walls where the construction trucks cannot pass, how sad that this is happening all around us and history disappears where only memories remain.

  28. Romantic and beautiful!

  29. reading this post was like walking through time with you…it was a lovely journey, thank you!

  30. Ahhhhh. Simply beautiful. I am glad to catch up with these early posts I’d missed!

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