How to Ride a Motorcycle and See the World

BMW in Europe

When riding a motorcycle, (or I should say being the passenger on a motorcycle,) there is one main thing to take into consideration, (other than wearing a helmet, gloves, boots, etc…)

The main thing is as a passenger you must:

Trust the one riding the bike, and if you don't trust the rider…. get off the bike.

If the bike leans, as it will, you must let your body lean naturally, go with the flow of the movement, or the one riding the bike will have to fight against your weight causing the bike to be off balanced.

(and let me tell you leaning into a turn is not as easy as it looks! Imagine leaning into hairpin turns, where the road is flashing an eyelash underneath you, where trucks rush by with enough force to send you and the rest of Europe on a Hawaiian vacation… and you quickly understand why someone mentioned to wear knee pads and steel toe boots.)

The answer: Let go and trust. If you do yoga imagine the root of the lotus position is where you want to center your energy… allowing your movements to come from that point. Or  think of yourself as a dancer, letting your movements come from the center on out. Or  become one with the rider by mimicking the rider's movements, or hold on tight and close your eyes. Whatever you do, trusting the rider is the main thing.

Rovinj croatia

Photo: Croatia, one of the many passage ways that made me want to abandon everything and go explore the new horizon.

When riding on a bike your thoughts are cracked open, they run long with the road, get caught up with the scenery- blend, mix and match with pieces of yesterday, recall passages of time not taken in years and bring peace of mind.

At one point I started to cry uncontrollably, and with a helmet on it was a wet mess of snot and tears that could not be whipped up with leather gloves. It did not matter the experience baptized me: Freedom to be a mess and no one around to notice.

You see I thought of my father as I often do, and when I think of him he is often in his hospital bed. Then I think and rethink and wonder if I did everything I could have done to maybe have saved him from that pain and eventual death.

But the other day on the bike my thoughts lead to something powerful. I was thinking of him, he was in the hospital bed and my thoughts carried me to the last moment when my family was around his bedside as we let him go… but at this point in my thoughts I saw my father sit up, he smiled, grabbed my hand and we walked out of the hospital. One outside I saw him sit on the motorcycle, touch my knee with his left hand, like a biker does when they love the person they are riding with, and said, "Let's go!" At that point I started to cry uncontrollably because Yann reached down and touched my knee at the same point as it was happening in my thoughts.

I felt my father next to me and I knew that he was free and he wasn't in pain and that he was smiling at me and wow, that felt soooooooooooooooo good.

Doorway croatia 

Riding around Europe on a motorcycle has been healing. I do not want to stop.

magentic pack for a motorcycle

Some of our stuff in the backpack case that magnetically attaches to the gas tank (Isn't that cool!) Inside of it we had two locks: One for the bike, and one for our helmets. We also had the interiors to our jackets when we weren't wearing them, my camera, a water thermos, a GPS, maps, a pen, a notepad, headache medicine and some granola bars. All in that little bag!

Old wagon with a basket 

Then there was a time that this was the carry on.

I wish I could have attached it to Willow and take it home! I was tempted to ask the farmer if he wanted to part with it. French Husband did not give me the chance… that is what happens when one is the passenger on a motorbike: You can't always get what you want!

IMG_0807

Our important papers: Money, Visa, Passports and insurance documents French Husband carried in a little pouch (see above.)

Oh I forgot we carried motorbike oil and kleenex as well in the magnetic back pack.

Rovinj croatia seaside 

Rovinj, Croatia. I am not going to tell you how much I loved Croatia. I am not going to tell you how this is the place to come and see. I am not going to tell you that if you have only one place to visit and you want to experience the Mediterranean lifestyle that you must visit Croatia. No, I am not going to say anything good about Rovinj, simply because good doesn't cut it. Marvelous is too boring of a word.

I'll just keep Croatia to myself, thank you.

helment

Whenever you stop on a motorcycle the first thing you want to do is take off your helmet and stuff your gloves inside. The top case often became a coat rack for our jackets.

In the photo above you see where the helmet is? That has been my seat for the last 21 days. Though I think my "seat" is bigger than the helmet.

My new found friends had a scale, I knew I should not have weighed myself… but tell me why did French Husband who drank beer at each meal lose weight? I know life is unfair, but gee, really how could he lose weight and not me? I have been hanging on tightly for days, doesn't that count off some calories??

BMW

On pit stops for gas, we often didn't bother to take off our jackets. At one stop there was a group of "twenty-somethings" chic, well dressed, young, and riding Harleys to St. Tropez. They had a Audi following them packed with their supplies. The three young girls bounced out of the car looking ultra cool, sexy in their motorcycle minis and boots. The young men boasted how the four hour ride was exhilarating.

I stood next to them in my soiled jeans, mullet hairdo, smelly stretched out tee shirt, sweaty un-made-up face and grabbed the most delicious man around and kissed him hard. French Husband kissed me back. 

ice cream bars croatia

We have had gallons of ice cream bars. I now know Koka means coconut. I do not mind the extra saddle bags it is giving me…honestly I do not mind, these ice creams bars are the best.  French Husband can have his beer, I'll eat these instead.

helmets attached to a motorcycle

Fancy attachments can be bought to attach your helmets to your bike. Or you can use a cord lock like this. Our helmets are the basic, solid models, no fancy gadgets, no earphones, nor music, or air conditioners, or maid service offered with them. Though I want to add a brightly colored flower or stripe to mine. I noticed we matched the grey black pavement and that kind of bothers me. I want the other drivers to notice us, and not think we are part of the road decor.

Croatia steps

Motorcycle Mama stripped of most of her motorcycle gear looking literally as hot as hell.

I walked along the sea coast town wishing I could strip my boots and jeans! French Husband said, "You look like a motorcycle chic!" I took that to be the best ever compliment to date.

croatia

Rovinj croatia facades  

Clouds never bother me when I am in a car. Though on a motorcycle I imagined myself like Moses, and the clouds were my Red Sea. I like to think Moses and I had something in common, be able to split things is a good trick to have up one's sleeve….

Lucky for us splitting worked most of the time.

Clothesline croatia

Taking photos on the back of a bike is not an easy task. Stopping is not either, because I wanted to STOP all the time, and well you know how far you can go if you aren't moving along….

Collecting memories on the back of a bike is like breathing, and often you gasp because you think you must be dreaming.

Banners in croatia inside

A view from inside Olja's home looking out at the banners.

Tomorrow I will tell you about the thundershower, Olja and Milan (her husband) and spending the night in their lovely home.



Comments

54 responses to “How to Ride a Motorcycle and See the World”

  1. Oh thanks Corey – what a beautifully long post! I thought I’d just peep in for more adventures before retiring – it’s 10.40pm here in NZ, but only just after lunch with you.

  2. Ana Jacas

    Life with all its joys and sorrows are contained in this post. The ones we love whether they have left us or are still with us are always in our hearts and the smallest thing can bring them back in an instant. When we can smile at the thought or memory then the journey is good. The freedom that being a passenger on a bike affords is tremendous, it allows space for reflection and with that all kinds of emotions, it’s cathartic. I can feel your soul’s deepest emotions in your words. I am honoured to be a part of your spiritual aswell as physical journey. I am also touched that you share the itimate moments of your journey too, a gentle touch by a loved one can say a thousand words.
    love
    Ana

  3. I have read todays blog through tears. With your words I feel your emotions of sadness, freedom and joy. Thankyou for the experience. Keep safe.

  4. I think today’s post was my absolute favorite so far. The story of your father and Yann touching your knee at exactly the same time just about did me in. Isn’t God good? This whole thing makes me want to ride. It makes me want to go to these amazing places and I haven’t even heard about Olja and Milan yet! You live an amazingly charmed life. Thank you so much for sharing it with us. (I think my favorite part was when you laid the big ol’ kiss on FH!)

  5. Great pictures Corey-glad you’re enjoying yoru adventure!

  6. a wonderful heartwarming post corey. you are so blessed to have the opportunity to travel through Europe on the bike and experience it all up close and personal. so enjoying each and every post. hugs and good thoughts always to you and yann.

  7. You have definitely found a friend Corey, and a lovely lady she is.
    I cried at this post..very touching, it was the memory of your father…I lost my father 42 years ago, when I was 10, and the last time I saw him was in hospital…it brings back so many memories, and I miss him so much, still to this day, and always will.
    Your journey is amazing, it perks me up, i wish sometimes that I had an adventurous husband, I used to have, but now that he travels the world for work, he doesn’t want to go anywhere, so I think I need a travel partner!! 🙂

  8. What a wonderful story to share with us. I love hearing about your journey. I might have said this before-my husband rides small, fast roadracers. I have told him someday I want him to have a bike that my butt would fit on and ride like you are. I’m so envious. Enjoy the ride and thanks for keeping us posted.

  9. Deb In IN USA

    An amazing post..experiencing such powerful memories at the same moments you are making more.
    It is clear that you are having the time of your life..we are so happy for you.
    It is so generous of you to allow us along on this adventure on such an intimate level. While I was truly touched by the story of your father-but it was the kiss with Yann that made me tear up. Your father will certainly always be with you–and the man who is in your present and future is so in sync with you after all this time. You are both blessed.

  10. I’m just thrilled that you are doing as the poet Nikki Giovanni advised–to paraphrase: spending your time and money on education and food, neither of which can ever be taken away from you.
    And I would go further: the wealth of memories of which, by having experienced them deeply, viserally, will only grow and be amplified like the rock thrown into the pond or starter for the original Sour Dough from San Francisco.
    Peace. And continued communion with your loves whether they are walking around bumping into the furniture or riding a Harley in the Firmament.

  11. I wanted to cry reading your story about your dad. Cleansing is wonderful. What a beautiful time you all are having!

  12. I think all of us who are following you on this journey will be sorrier that you are when it’s over. Delicious posts!
    I am so glad you got to feel the release of your dad from pain… he’s riding right beside you, no doubt.

  13. Love and hugs and thanks for taking us along on this marvelous European adventure
    I love you
    Jeanne
    ooooh La La………..
    Jeanne♥

  14. Oh, my goodness I can’t wait for that part of the story. I have to tell you that this is the first year -ever – we have not taken a vacation! Long, boring story. Thank goodness my husband finally found another job and thank GOODNESS for your blog!! I have had a vacation vicariously through you! I simply can’t wait to read your blog, and watch the world through your eyes. Thank you for the wonderful time!!
    Kathy in Chicago

  15. Thank you for helping me see the world!

  16. Hi. Just want to say thanks for letting us follow your travels and ‘be’ in Croatia with you even though I’m actually in a hospital (being released today). Your photos are beautiful!

  17. Wept.

  18. Corey,
    I hope you do get to dip into the sea now that you are down there, I empathize with you and the kind of heat you must be able to take!
    Reading your wondrous tales of riding on the back of a motor bike, I imagine my mother could have told similar ones. My parents even spent their honeymoon on the bike, so there, you guess how much reading about your adventures mean to me.

  19. Nancy from Mass

    How am I going to explain the tears running down my face at work after reading your post? I lost my Dad when I was 18, massive heart attack in front of me and he was gone before the ambulance arrived. Instead of riding a bike with him, I remember fishing all night at the camp in the fiberglass boat that made me itch…and the games of cribbage we’d play at the table.
    Thanks for letting us journey with you and FH. Cheers, stay safe, keep posting!

  20. I hope your mom is reading this post today – it will bring tears to her as it has to us, BUT she will love that you feel your Dad still so close. Loved learning the intrical things about long distance biking – you are so brave so go such a distance with so little ‘stuff’…………and not hitching that blue wagon to the bike must have been hard – think what treasures you could have piled in to take home, LOL!!!!
    Croatia is now on my wish list – I know you wouldn’t steer us wrong!
    Today is my first post on Willows and the shop – hope you can take a quick peek!

  21. Yesterday in yoga the teacher said we wish for all beings to be happy and free…

  22. I will have to wait until Sunday before I can read your next post. God keep you safe.

  23. oh…I am sure your family wept when they read your thoughts on your father…made me grieve again for my own father.
    Wonderful post today…ride safe!

  24. Corey,
    You continue to amaze me with how you are able to plumb the depth of your emotions, and then so brilliantly write about them.
    Obviously your father was a loving, caring man who made an indelible mark on your heart and your life. What a marvelous legacy!!
    Marilyn (in Dallas)

  25. Rebecca in the Pacific Northwest

    Corey, I read your blog regularly and rarely comment. My husband and I are planning to go to Croatia next year and I’ve emailed him several of your ecstatic descriptive paragraphs! We’re getting pretty enthused. (And specific location recommendations?)
    I love the revealing of your inner journey as you take this lovely bike journey. With the most delicious man in your life.
    Reading your heart, and seeing through your eyes, is a lovely privilege. thanks. (and now I’ll probably go back to “lurking” again. But I’m here.)

  26. Oh, when you described leaving the hospital with your Dad! Very touching. What a fantastic trip this has been for you and Yann. Thank you oodles for sharing your photos, thoughts and experiences.

  27. Rebecca in the Pacific Northwest

    When you get home, I’d enjoy an assessment/comparison of what you WANTED to take, and fretted over how many things you wanted and couldn’t pack, versus what you now know you could do without and what was a really good idea. (And of all the suggestions readers made, which helped especially lots?)
    Would be an interesting recap!

  28. Hey Motorcylcle Mama, You Go Girl!

  29. I am so thrilled for you, you motorcycle mama. The pure joy, the sweat, and the healing have been a trip of a lifetime.
    Marilyn
    in Oregon

  30. Every one of your posts has been deliciously beautiful and interesting but this one is the very best–in every respect.
    I miss my Mother like you miss your Dad. Remembering and missing loved ones is one of life’s most bittersweet moments.

  31. barbara vasko

    corey…you put down your sorrow. i can remember the exact time and place that happened for me. now you will really start to heal and you will not have to work on finding your joy. it all becomes easier.
    ‘you can’t always get what you want but if you try sometimes you might find you get what you need’. what a journey for you. thank you for sharing with such a open heart.
    bv

  32. OHH!! yes i immediately knew that you were in rovinj! ;)) i have the same photos as you!!!
    true huh..the croatian sea-side is amazing huh?!!!
    next time you can go with me…;)) nema problema…;)
    xx

  33. I’m still pretty new here, but I gather that your dad was an avid motorcyclist — right, Corey? If so, then I’d imagine this trip is something he’d be pleased you’re doing in homage to his enthusiasm.
    Corey, are you going to Northern California in September? Me too! Maybe we can arrange to meet up while I’m in the San Francisco Bay Area.

  34. See, how what a clever teacher you are, about the “Ride of Life”…How to ride through life:
    > Be prepared.
    > Trust your partner.
    > Lean with, not against.
    > Feel your way through surfaced emotions.
    > Jump start heart on the spot.
    > Get back on again.

  35. Julie Ann Evins

    That was great to read Corey, a lovely interesting account of life on the road and so uplifting. I fancy Croatia. A wonderful moment there with your Dad. I keep hoping for something similar, perhaps I need to find a way to let my mind go. Even if I were prepared to climb on the bike it would not be possible for a while as K has broken his leg and had surgery on Wednesday (ladder not bike accident)! Has been a bit of a roller-coaster the last couple of weeks & your diary has proved a welcome distraction. Keep safe, Jx

  36. Thank you, Corey, today’s post is so utterly beautiful!

  37. oh, it’s always such a treat when I have time to read your blog! Thanks for sharing your delightful adventures with us!

  38. What a catharsis you’ve had on this trip! Good for you, Corey. I’m sure your father would be please at this trip you have taken.
    Can’s say enough good things about the beauty of Croatia you are sharing here. Makes me want to explore it myself.

  39. You’re probably heading south, but if not, you might want to head up to Piran on the Slovenian coast. It’s a gorgeous medieval town.

  40. Yann’s hair looks cute with the hair band. You know, in the motor oil shot.

  41. absolutely brilliant post.. I read it so fast that I know I must go back and read it again.. I kept saying, yes, yes!!
    I love being on the back of the bike, I love how (dutch husband) taps my leg every now and then to reassure himself that I am still there, it brings a closeness that you cannot describe, it swells in your heart.
    I don’t like how there is no makeup and I hate, hate the hair.. I am always ruffling mine up as I take my helmet off so that it might at least look casually messy.. I have sobbed on the back of the bike, uncontrollably, I have sorted the world’s problems out and have had such profound thoughts.. once I tried to write them down as we went along..didn’t work. I have tried to record my thoughts on a little machine as we went racing along.. all I got was the roar of the Harley..so I keep those profound thoughts to myself, sometimes sighing *ahhh*…
    lord this is becoming a long comment.. so I will go re-read and I am sure I will be back to comment again.
    loving this sharing Corey.. we are sisters on the back of bikes xoxo
    safe travels. xo

  42. oh, oh!! I forgot to say.. I have a black helmet too… and I found a gorgeous pink butterfly to put on it.. to signify my freedom from cancer! and I have a sticker saying ‘protected by angels’ I will get you one xoxo

  43. Corey, you crack me up. Are you truly as much fun in real life or do you come alive in your writing??? My bet is on you being as much fun in real life.
    Croatia looks and sounds like it’s delightful. Can’t wait to hear about your new found friends and how they came to invite you to spend the night in their home – that’s quite a leap of faith, you could have been the head Mama (and Papa) in the motorcycle mama gang! 🙂
    Looking forward to the next chapter(s)…

  44. Now I want to see Croatia, too. You make me want to ride along with you and Yann with your lovely writing and amazing photos. Just say the word “Medieval town” and I am drooling with desire to see it!
    I can’t wait to hear more about your new friends. Meeting the “natives”, staying in their home, that truly makes an adventure. We should all be so lucky and so courageous!
    Thank you for all your sharing.

  45. Your dad would be so thrilled for you and your adventure! Thanks for sharing your story about him. (I got goosebumps)
    I have to say, I’ve never thought of going to Croatia, but now you’ve got me curious!
    Have fun, and stay safe…
    Jill

  46. Lovin’ your blog, Corey–thanks! My fav pic is the one with the laundry hanging out to dry…

  47. Lovely trip! My husband has been going to Croatia on business about once a year for the last few years. He keeps begging me to go!
    d

  48. Hasmin Cannon

    I’m so in awe of you and FH’s adventurous spirit. I couldn’t imagine myself doing that, but it seems like so much fun…and a wonderful time with the one you love.

  49. Mike Knowles

    AS a life-long motorcyclist (over 50 years) I just love your infectious enthusiasm for your new-found love. I agree about how thoughts come and go whilst on the road and found your comments about your father very poignant.
    I hope you keep enjoying, Corey. I am now 70 but still get the thrill of expectation every time I put on my helmet and fire up the BMW

  50. I loved the romance you share with your husband as if twenty years that have passed never happened and even better than that..kissing him in front of a pack of young-uns like they are all that and more. LOL Rock On !

  51. ahhhHHHHH! The chocolate coconut ice cream bars, the homemade grappa, new friends, the thundershower, your endearing thoughts about your dad, those romantic kisses,the seaside pics, the little wagon, YOU are such an inspiration! and a breath of fresh air! Loving the ride at my kitchen in WV! Happy Week-end to YOU Corey and your french husband!

  52. Deborah P

    Corey, I’m so happy that you had that magical moment with your Father.

  53. You expressed wonderfully why I love to travel on a bike so much! The feelings on looking at the world this way is priceless. And I must say, I’ve become a pro in taking pictures while driving in the back seat!

  54. What an interesting life you live, thank you for sharing.

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