Favorite Restaurants in France

Silver-domes


Flash back 1988:

      Staring at the menu, I sat in a cafe in Paris. French Husband translated the menu, but not word for word. He read, "Chicken no. Lamb no. Bunny certainly not. The liver of a duck…. Oh I love the liver of the duck… mais no."

We were vegetarians in a world of meat eaters. Slim pickings' with a whole lot of desserts.

The waiter came to our table, pencil in hand, no smile upon his face, dressed in his black coat and long white apron. Food is serious business in France and I felt like a small potato on a kitchen counter.

Wine-bottle

Pretending I knew how to speak French I blurted that I did not eat meat, and could he suggest something for us. Beaming with pride that my broken, heavily accented French had caused the waiter's left side of his mouth to turn up, I thought he smiled and waited for his response. Instead he simply clicked his heels and said, "Alors?"

French Husband leaned across the table, grabbed my hand as if the moment were intimate and holy, I felt a rush inside… but my bubble burst when he said, "Corey, you told the waiter, that you do not eat food."

Eating-in-france 

My red face did not match my lipstick. I looked up at the waiter with an awkward smile.

You see the word Beef which is pronounced: Bouef, and the word eat is Bouffee. Looking at those two words you can see the difference is not extraordinary.

We ate.

The waiter smiled, briefly.

And I learned how to say vegetarian right then and there.

Fromage 

A few favorite restaurants in France (please feel free to add to the list):

(Also if you see a sign on the door that says Pudlo then you can trust that the restaurant is going to be a favorite too!

Paris:

1)

If you are after a bit of history…the oldest restaurant in Paris is:

A la Petite Chaise

2)

If you are into a good view while you sip your wine:

Le Ciel de Paris

3)

If you are looking for old fashion taste, something from by gone days, a place where I have to go each and every time I am in Paris:

Chez Robert and Louise  (A MUST SEE VIDEO) Since I do not eat meat… I always ask them to make me an omelet. Louise throws in home fried potatoes and sauteed mushrooms. (My dear friend Shannon referred to this restaurant yesterday in the comment section.)

4)

A favorite hang out of ours when we lived in Paris years ago and it still remains a treat:

Chez Paul


5)

If you are into the decor and food and atmosphere and need a dinner date (take me to…)

Vefour  

And a wonderful blog about Paris. Another must see, fantastic photos and information.

Dining-with-friends

Restaurants in Provence:

1)

La Mirande… when I die this is what heaven will be like. A beautiful place to wander from room to glorious room. Amazing views, cooking classes, wonderful food, and flawless decor.

Yes this is heaven… in this life too.

2)

If you are after simplicity, a waterfront view, and a taste of the true blue…

Chez Robert in Toulon.

3)

Nestled in a small town famous for santons and Marcel Pagnol is a wonderful new restaurant that tops my list for their impeccable service, and perfectly prepared, full flavored meals.

Les Aromes

4) Another little secret restaurant amongst the locals, is a restaurant up in the hills: Where it is said that Marie Magdalene lived and prayed in the Grotto of Saint Baume.

The restaurants decor is very casual, with outdoor seating. They also have a small hotel… but the food is the main attraction.

Lou Pèbre d'ai

5) Another favorite of mine, is a restaurant that sits right on the water. Above the restaurant are four rooms to rent as well. There is a special priced menu at noon as well that is unbeatable. Fish soup baked in a puff pastry shell is my favorite.

Le Cabanon

6)

Chez Etienne… if you have been to Marseille and did not have a meal at this pizzeria then you cannot say you have been to Marseille. It is a institution with anyone who is from Marseille; Though with that said I must warn you … the menu is not priced. The owner declares how much you will pay at the end. You better be nice!

Meals-with-friends

Of course, you can, and I hope you will, go to the open markets (ask the tour office in each town for a listing of markets in the area). At the open market you can find many
prepared foods, cheese, wine, fresh fruit, olives, pate, tapanade, and bread to create your own picnic.

If you have any favorite places that you would like to share please do so in the comment section.

Tomorrow a little tour of the Brocante.



Comments

26 responses to “Favorite Restaurants in France”

  1. I’m so curious, how can it be the owner can declare “how much you will pay at the end”? Is the cutomer allowed to barter? I’m fascinated.

  2. Corey,
    I love the list. Perhaps someday I will be able to check a few of the items off as places experienced.

  3. Thanks again Corey for taking us to the fabulous La Mirande for coffee. I still drool when I think of all the beautiful antiques. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate it!!! Wonderful memories.

  4. Thank you so much Corey. I will print off this list. We just moved to Paris and I feel a bit like “a fish out of water”. This will be a wonderful starting point. First, I really need to start taking some french lessons. Oh my!

  5. Ooh Corey, you have made my husband’s day! Any restaurant frequented by Anthony Bourdain ( chez Robert and Louise) will be must visit for him in May. ALL THAT MEAT! he will be in heaven. I DO NOT eat meat, so will settle for cheese and salad ( it would seem the fried potatoes are cooked in goose fat, so I’ll go without those!).
    I will be him taking here……
    http://www.charlot-paris.com/index.php
    Their bouillabaisse is divine. he has not been before. I highly recommend this place.

  6. Thank you for giving the name of that restaurant. What an experience that was! I’m going to send my friend the links from today’s and yesterday’s posts. They’re going to Paris in June.

  7. Gee, wish I could reciprocate…but the hotspot in Belleville, Ontario, Canada is the Cozy Grill, and let’s just say it doesn’t photograph well.

  8. Lieselotte

    Corey, tell me what kind of bread ( with almonds ? ) that is in your picture, what it is called, and is it eaten at a special time of the year ? It looks délicieux ! Is it sweet or salty ?

  9. Hello Corey, I read your blog every day. It’s one of the pleasant things that I try to incorporate into a daily routine. And you are pleasant, AND so much fun! I just love the ease with which you tell stories, even awkward ones and write about the details of your life in France. I lived in the Canary Islands for a little over a year and alway dream of being an expat. in Spain, but that’s another story. The reason I was finally prompted to write this morning was that I simply loved having a list of great restaurants in France where I can get vegetarian fare (not that I’m able to hop on a plane tomorrow, but one never knows, right?) I, too, am vegetarian, and have just discovered some new publications about the subject that are most inspiring like The China Study, How to Prevent and Reverse Heart Disease and Engline 2. Maybe sitting amongst the brocante you might find some of the reading interesting. Love to you from Sacto. CA!

  10. Natalie Thiele

    Thank you for the wonderful lists. I hope, someday, to return to France.
    In the mean time I would love a Valentine’s Day update on Eva and Mattieu as well as your niece, Juliette’s “secret”. Any chance you can reveal any tidbits?

  11. Joy Hendricksen

    Don’t have any particular favorites in Paris or Provence (LOVED THEM ALL!!!), but I SO WANT those two “covers” (I know there’s a name for them, but can’t think of it right now!) sitting on the table in the picture!!!!!
    Reading your blog is the highlight of my day! Love Paris and Provence and can never feed my addiction adequately!
    Enjoying………
    luvparee/joy

  12. Oh! Thank you Corey!!! I am saving this for when I get to go!!!! 🙂
    carol

  13. Forgot to tell you that I laughed out loud at your story – you tell such a funny story – see you even made the waiter want to smile!:)

  14. On National Public Radio this afternoon, “Move Over, Cupcake: Make Way For The Macaroon”
    http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=123566536
    Corey, thanks to you we’re all so far ahead of the trendy curve 😉

  15. I’m guessing that THE BEST place to dine in a gracious atmosphere would be at YOUR home!
    Have a lovely weekend my California friend.

  16. Love Chez Paul and the decor at Le Grand Vefour is incredible…xv

  17. Hi. I suggest “Le Miroir’ Rue des Martys in Montmartre:
    http://hipparis.com/2009/12/27/le-miroir-authentic-french-bistro-food-in-montmartre
    Just had a wonderful lunch there a couple of days ago.
    -Erica

  18. Hilarious! Looking back, I sometimes wonder what I said to French people when I was in Paris. I did have the “Je suis vegetarienne” line down, though…

  19. jend’isère

    Vegetarian habits are difficult to maintain in a land where altering the menu in any way can insult the chef or host. Recommendations of how to handle ths delicate matter?

  20. I will definitely save this for our next trip. When we were in Avignon a few years ago, we arrived with no reservations and tried to stay at La Mirande. They were so sorry they were full, but we could stay in their private apartments down the street. Unbelievable. You are right about heaven on earth! We ate in the restaurant too. Heaven!

  21. I enjoy reading your blog so much I think I’ll have to drag my husband one day. Happy Valentine’s Day!!

  22. To Paris that is 🙂

  23. I enjoy reading your blog do much that I think my husband and I will have to visit Paris one day.Happy Valentine’s Day!

  24. I enjoy reading your blog so much that I think my husband and I will have to visit Paris one day.Happy Valentine’s Day!

  25. Pasta Cosy in Aix. Out of the way, reasonably priced, and charming, just like the proprietor and chef, Fabian, who by the way, is also easy on the eyes..

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