Being French at the Bistro

French cafe Lifestyle

French Bistro, Morning: 

Walk straight to the counter, when the bartender looks at you, nod your head, point your pointer finger up, and at the same time mouth whisper, "Espresso please". Grab a croissant off the platter, pinch off a bit (do not bite into the croissant) and pop it into your mouth, when the espresso comes, down it in two gulps, do not wince if it is hot, glance at your phone, leave the amount on the tag. Say, Merci, Ciao, and leave.

 

Cafe, France, French

 

Doing the French Bistro is not an art, but it looks like it when you see the French doing it.

It is such a part of their culture that they do it as easily as they smoke a cigarette without concern or shame.

Having a dog tag along adds to the look.

Sunglasses a must, the bigger the better.

Take your napkin to your lap the moment the waiter serves your meal.

 

 

French-cafe-sign

 

 

Doing the French Bistro is not just about having a drink, whether you are alone or not, doing the Bistro is also about people watching. Any time of the day. Giving the one over, or being looked at up and down, is not uncommon, the French check out everyone as if they are on a runway. 

 

 

Cafe, France

French Bistro, Afternoon:

After breakfast and the morning espresso/croissant scene, lunch comes into play. If you walk into a cafe after 11:30 am and see some tables set up that means they are setting up for lunch. If you want a cafe either go to the counter or sit at one of the tables that are not set up.

12:30 is the beginning of lunch. Lunch is served until 2:30.

At the Bistro choose a ‘plat du jour’ from the chalkboard menu, or at the counter, you can order a sandwich, a classic baguette sandwich is sliced down the center with butter, cheese, and ham, or butter and cheese.

Soda is not a common drink amongst adults. Though if you want a drink order an Orangina.

If you want water you will need to ask for it- "Une carafe d'eau, si vous plait."

Paris has changed, lunch is served nearly throughout the afternoon… but Paris is not France. Most of France adheres to tradition, lunch 12:30 to 2:30. How dare those Parisians breaking the rules, especially after I left and move to the south.

 

 

French Lifestyle

 

French Bistro, After Two:

French people meet after two for a coffee if they haven't had one after lunch.

It is not uncommon to meet after two for a coffee and chat.

Alcoholic drinks do not usually appear until after four, though usually after six.

Around four in the afternoon, a little snack from the pastry shop, a tea or hot chocolate is acceptable.

Yes, in France there is an hour for every single thing you pop into your mouth.

 

 

FrenchCafe eat well savor life

 

Photo via google

 

When in France savour every bite.

 

 

Cafe Awnings France

 

Tips are not expected as they are already added to your bill. Though it is a nice gesture to leave a Euro or two.

When at a French Bistro, after your order has been served, the waiter will not approach you again, unless you make a signal that you want something. When you are ready to leave you must make eye contact with your waiter and raise your pointer finger again. Often tourists think the French waiter is ignoring them, but that is not true. In France when you sit at a cafe or at a restaurant your time is private, and the waiter is trained not to invade your private space unless you need them. 

 

 

Cafe, France, Cafe

 

French Bistro, After Siix:

Bring on the cocktail hour(s)

Known as the "Aperitif".

Drinks before dinner, not at dinner. Wine at dinner. Drinks after dinner. Coffee before four or after dinner, but not during dinner.

Confusing?  

You see why cafes are so important? Drinking hours really means drinking hours.

 

 

French cafe window

 

French Bistro: After Hours,

Linger.

The most important rule of all if you do not want to look like a tourist… talk softly, not because your accented voice will give you away, but because the French usually do not speak loudly in public places. 

Usually.

 

"…Of Russian origin: Bistro. It is well known that a small restaurant or café in France where you can have a quick and simple meal is called a bistro. However, there are still debates over the etymology of this word. The most popular version maintains that the term originated during the Russian Occupation of Paris in 1915."   via World Wise Words

 

 

French-Menu

In 1960, France had 200,000 cafes, said Mr. Quartier, president of the National Federation of Cafes, and Brasseries. Now it has fewer than 41,500, with an average of two closing every day.

 

An interesting article:

 

"Like the Eiffel Tower and the winding Seine, bistros are an iconic part of the Parisian landscape. From morning till night, hungry patrons flock to these casual eateries to chow down on hearty comfort foods and people-watch from tables on outdoor terraces. But as Ciara Nugent reports for TIME, the classic French bistro is in trouble—and one proprietor is leading a campaign to save them.

 

Alain Fontaine, who owns Le Mesturet in central Paris, is at the helm of a movement to secure Unesco “intangible cultural heritage status” for Parisian bistros. The designation recognizes “traditions or living expressions inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants,” according to Unesco’s website. Receiving intangible cultural heritage status can have monetary benefits—Unesco funds efforts to safeguard certain practices—and it also brings much-needed awareness to cherished traditions. It is little surprise, then, that the status has become a key target for bistro advocates like Fontaine.

In recent years, money woes and a changing food culture have pushed the classic eateries to the wayside. Steep rents in Paris have forced some bistros to close, and bistro proprietors have found it difficult to compete with the low prices of imported American chains like Starbucks and Chipotle. Eating habits are also evolving; in place of drawn-out midday meals on bistro terraces, residents are opting to eat speedy lunches at their desks. Nugent reports that the France’s National Statistics Office has calculated that at least 300 Paris bistros closed between 2014 and 2018—around a quarter of what the city had to offer.

What makes a bistro a bistro? “By Fontaine’s definition, an authentic bistro is an eatery that’s open continuously morning to night, serves French comfort foods at moderate prices, and houses an active bar where locals can gather for a drink and some lively conversation,” writes Vivian Song of the BBC. (Heaven forbid you should confuse bistros with brasseries, larger establishments with more expensive menus.)

Bistros are said to have come to Paris in the 19th century, as migrants from south-central France flocked to the capital in search of work during the Industrial Revolution. Some new arrivals, according to Song, opened up cafés. While the husbands delivered coal, wives would serve up drinks and home-cooked dishes in these establishments at prices that laborers could afford. Fittingly, these eateries were distinguished by their signs that read “Vins et charbons” (Wines and coal).

While bistros of later decades became cultural and intellectual hubs—Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir were among the famous fixtures of several establishments in Paris—today’s bistros continue to be defined by their affordability and welcoming atmosphere.

“We have everyone here, blue collar workers, professionals, families, students, tourists,” Fontaine tells Nugent. “They can meet, share, argue.”

In the wake of the 2015 terror attack that killed at least 130 people in Paris and wounded hundreds more, bistros also became a symbol of resilience. According to Claire Mufson of the New York Times, Parisians shared photos of themselves on bistro terraces with the hashtag #tousaubistrot —“Everyone to the bistro”—as a sign that they would not be cowed by acts of violence.

For Fontaine’s campaign to be successful, it will need to be approved by France’s culture ministry, which will then recommend it to Unesco. The proposal will be submitted in September, but French bistros are already facing competition from other cultural staples. Parisian “bouquinistes,” or open-air booksellers, are also campaigning for Unesco status, as are the roofers and zinc workers who install the gray rooftops that cover many of the city’s buildings.

In Fontaine’s eyes, Paris’ bistros are as worthy of preservation as any of the city’s other rich cultural offerings.

“A bistro isn’t just some place for a quick bite to eat,” he tells Nugent. “It’s the home of the Parisian art de vivre [art of living]—that’s what we’re losing if these places die out: our way of life.”

By 

smithsonian.com 

Read more: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/parisian-bistro-disappearing-180969608/#DuqxB9lOkgiiVKGC.99



Comments

11 responses to “Being French at the Bistro”

  1. In France when you sit at a cafe or at a restaurant your time is private, and the waiter is trained not to invade your private space unless you need them.
    Among my pet peeves is getting pestered by servers while eating — especially when they interrupt a conversation with impunity, and later when they ask, “You still workin’ on that?”

  2. The first time my husband and I were in Paris we learned some of these rules. We showed up at a restaurant at 6PM and they told us to come back as it was time for the people working there to eat first. We soon learned the rules.

  3. Excellent post Corey. Really describes the logic and rhythm of French cafe meals.

  4. I hate the obtrusive wait person also. My brother once told one, after the “are ya still workin’ on that?” comment, that he was “eating, NOT working” on his food. It made no impression.
    The sad thing is that many wait people are told to do this by management, who want to turn the tables for other customers. This doesn’t happen in France. I was once told that in a restaurant here, when you book a reservation, it’s your table until you leave. That’s why it’s so important to book a table at a popular restaurant, as they generally only have one seating per service.

  5. Great post, Corey. One of the things that’s always a treat when visiting Paris is going to bistros. Sadly these are disappearing not only in Paris but elsewhere in France, especially the old style ones with a zinc bar and simple wooden tables with checkered table cloths. I know it’s a cliche’, but it’s a nice cliche’. Way too many places try to be “moderne” in decor and cooking. Sometimes what a customer wants is a friendly, warm atmosphere and a slow cooked daube.

  6. Two books that taught me a lot about the French, and their food: The Discovery of France, by Graham Robb (covers between the revolution and the first world war), and The Physiology of Taste by Brillat-Savarin. Bistros…love them.

  7. Lora L Gohn

    I love this article. So interesting. And the pictures!!

  8. You wrote this with just the perfect rhythm.
    Some points: it also can be spelled bistrot, with a silent T at the end. The Russian occupation was a century earlier, in 1814. And a brasserie originally was a place that made and sold beer (dating to 1268!).
    In Carcassonne, one often sees wine glasses (and, in summer Ricard glasses) appearing as early as 11 a.m. at the cafés that encircle the Saturday market. Just Saturdays, though.

  9. debra phillips

    fascinating!!! thank you, I now, finally, have a clearer view of the process
    Merci
    Debra

  10. Sharon CrigSt

    Very interesting, Corey. Thanks for sharing. I love reading about France and French life through your eyes!

  11. Loved this post! Thank you.

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