French la Vie

Candied fruit, or “fruits confits,” has a delicious history in Provence. The art of candying fruit, which involves preserving it in sugar syrup, dates back to ancient times. However, it began to take shape during the Middle Ages and flourished during the Renaissance.

Confit fruits began in ancient times when monks and local artisans used sugar to preserve fruits from their orchards for the long winters. By the 19th century, towns like Apt had become centers for confit fruit production, and this practice became a staple of French culinary heritage. The history of confit fruit in France is tied to Provence, which had abundant sunshine and fruit, such as citrus, figs, melons, and cherries.

The process of confit fruit became essential because it allowed for preserving harvested fruits that would otherwise spoil quickly. Sugar, a luxury in the early centuries, became more available in the 16th century, particularly after the establishment of sugar plantations in the Caribbean.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, monasteries in Provence were known for producing the best confit fruits, made from local citrus fruits (oranges, lemons, and citrons), melons, cherries, and figs. On a sweet note, confit fruits were used in elaborate ways on dessert tables at weddings, royal banquets, and religious feasts such as Christmas.

A popular legend traces the introduction of calissons to Provence in the mid-15th century, during the second wedding of Rois Rene or the King René of Anjou (who lived his last years in Aix en Provence) when he married Jeanne de Laval, commissioned his court’s candy maker to create a special treat just for her. This candy, called calisson, was crafted with almond paste, candied melon, and sugar and symbolized their affection. The name calisson is derived from the word câlin, which in French means “tender affection” or “a little hug” in English. The soft and sweet candy was designed as a “little hug,” a gesture of tender love and devotion for his bride.

“The calisson is believed to have originated in the south of France. Its most likely etymology, established by Provençal sociolinguist Philippe Blanchet in 1998, suggests the word calissoun is derived from chalice and the diminutive suffix -oun, meaning “small chalice.” Small both in size and symbolic value, the word chalice originally referred to the sacred cup used in the Eucharist, a symbol of communion. By extension, the calisson became a kind of symbolic host, echoing the ritual significance of the sacrament.” Via Wiki text and tabletop photo.

The traditional method of making confit fruit involves several steps and can take several days or weeks to complete.

Selection: Fruits such as citrus (these are my favorites), cherries, melons, apricots, and figs are often used. Only ripe, fresh fruits are selected to ensure the best flavor and texture.
Preparation: Depending on the type, the fruit is peeled, pitted, or cut into sections. Citrus fruits are often peeled and segmented, while figs or melons might be halved. Blanching: The fruit is blanched in boiling water briefly to soften the skins and remove bitterness.

Sugar Syrup Infusion: The key part of the process involves soaking the fruit in a sugar syrup. The fruit is placed in a syrup made from sugar and water, which slowly absorbs the syrup over time. The syrup’s concentration is gradually increased to ensure the fruit is fully infused with sugar.
Drying: After the fruit has absorbed enough syrup, it is removed and dried. This can be done in the sun, in ovens, or in drying rooms. The drying process ensures the fruit becomes sticky and translucent while maintaining a soft, chewy texture.
Powdering: The confit fruit can sometimes be powdered with sugar so it glistens.

Now, the question: Do you like confit fruit from Provence? Personally, I do enjoy lemons and oranges, but not so much the other fruit. Secondly, if you are ever in Provence, you can visit the Roi Rene Museum to learn about and taste Calissons, which I find irresistible.

Jouvaud, in Carpentras and Isle sur la Sorgue is the most charming family-owned bakery/chocolatier/confit fruit and gift shop, where everything is homemade, and it is hard to have one of anything unless it is one of everything. After the brocante market on Sunday Morning, it is the perfect spot to sit, sip, and indulge. I will meet you there.